arkjones | MyCollect

Regarding Raw Coins in sets vs leaderboard… I don’t want to risk this as a test, so a question first. If I add raw to my set, is the entire set dropped from leaderboard? Or is it just that raw are not contributing to scores? I would prefer the later, so I can track full sets (and replace with slabs on some). And a % complete as (slabbed % / total %) would be nice.

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Macro lens question…
Do the dedicated macro lenses have a finer adjustment for manual focus than standard zooms?
I am just getting in to the coin shooting, mainly to document my collections. I’ve done tons of astro shooting and most of my lenses were picked for the infinity side of ranges and little light lol.

For the coin setup, I’ve got a low end Nikon D3400, mounted on a swing arm. Built an axial light box (45degree glass setup) to really try out some lighting. Still tweaking on lighting and color, but focusing is my issue right now.

The lenses I have available that can focus in the 12-24” range all have very very sensitive focus rings. A tiny move one way or another blows past the focus point. Even getting dialed in just ok and then flipping the coin will end up slightly different focus. :-/

Tried different f stop as well to get a deeper focus range but that is still iffy. Looking at a used Nikkor 108 micro AF-S (d3400 is limited on lens comparability). But wonder if the investment will make a big diff. Less temperamental focusing would be diff enough for me lol

Macro lens question… Do the dedicated macro lenses have a finer adjustment for manual focus than standard zooms? I am just getting in to the coin shooting, mainly to document my collections. I’ve done tons of astro shooting and most of my lenses were picked for the infinity side of ranges and little light lol. For the coin setup, I’ve got a low end Nikon D3400, mounted on a swing arm. Built an axial light box (45degree glass setup) to really try out some lighting. Still tweaking on lighting and color, but focusing is my issue right now. The lenses I have available that can focus in the 12-24” range all have very very sensitive focus rings. A tiny move one way or another blows past the focus point. Even getting dialed in just ok and then flipping the coin will end up slightly different focus. :-/ Tried different f stop as well to get a deeper focus range but that is still iffy. Looking at a used Nikkor 108 micro AF-S (d3400 is limited on lens comparability). But wonder if the investment will make a big diff. Less temperamental focusing would be diff enough for me lol

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JasonNicholls

There's no risk in testing it out - you can always disable raw to make the set eligible for the leaderboards again. If you disable raw it will kick out any allocated raw coins though.

There's no risk in testing it out - you can always disable raw to make the set eligible for the leaderboards again. If you disable raw it will kick out any allocated raw coins though.
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- arkjones
  
  JasonNicholls ok. I was concerned it might be non-reversible. I blew up my set creation dates a while back before the auto “replace with better” came around when I bulk removed all sets to get ANACS in. Never thought age of sets might be benificial. Lol
  
  [JasonNicholls] ok. I was concerned it might be non-reversible. I blew up my set creation dates a while back before the auto “replace with better” came around when I bulk removed all sets to get ANACS in. 😱 Never thought age of sets might be benificial. Lol
ToddPollock

Currently if you allow raw coins in your set it drops you from the leaderboard. We are looking at what options we can do to make it all work the best. JasonNicholls IanRussell

Currently if you allow raw coins in your set it drops you from the leaderboard. We are looking at what options we can do to make it all work the best. [JasonNicholls] [IanRussell]
- arkjones
  
  ToddPollock I’ll hold off on adding raw to sets then. Or at least not the ones I’m heavy on slabbed coins. My personal tracking system doesn’t include the PCGS or Greysheet ID for raw yet, so it’ll be a lift for adding anyway.
  
  [ToddPollock] I’ll hold off on adding raw to sets then. Or at least not the ones I’m heavy on slabbed coins. My personal tracking system doesn’t include the PCGS or Greysheet ID for raw yet, so it’ll be a lift for adding anyway.

Robert.Julian

Here is an example of a stacked shot

https://lincolncentsociety.wixsite.com/ev-diagnostics/copy-of-2108?pgid=kxuo4ael-aed37ce1-d57a-4090-aba5-adb145c4950f

Here is an example of a stacked shot https://lincolncentsociety.wixsite.com/ev-diagnostics/copy-of-2108?pgid=kxuo4ael-aed37ce1-d57a-4090-aba5-adb145c4950f
- ToddPollock
  
  Robert.Julian Nice! I dont mess much with stacking. I have a camera that has a multi shot feature that seems pretty amazing but I dont have time to play with it.
  
  [Robert.Julian] Nice! I dont mess much with stacking. I have a camera that has a multi shot feature that seems pretty amazing but I dont have time to play with it.
Robert.Julian

I use a "poor mans" setup similar to the one Denis Richard uses.

https://hipshotphotography.com/

I use a "poor mans" setup similar to the one Denis Richard uses. https://hipshotphotography.com/
- arkjones
  
  Robert.Julian The axial setup I scraped together that weekend was based on the general design of that. But I wouldn’t even call it “poor man’s” the way I went about it… more like pauper man set up. It was more to explore what my camera was capable of to start with.
  
  After I get a dedicated macro lens, I’m planning on rebuilding it with a more stable and versatile design. I learned a few things about the layout in this first attempt.
  
  [Robert.Julian] The axial setup I scraped together that weekend was based on the general design of that. But I wouldn’t even call it “poor man’s” the way I went about it… more like pauper man set up. It was more to explore what my camera was capable of to start with. After I get a dedicated macro lens, I’m planning on rebuilding it with a more stable and versatile design. I learned a few things about the layout in this first attempt.
Robert.Julian

Hi Todd,

I use a cannon EOS with a 100mm macro lens. I use Helicon as my camera software.

I use a modified axial lighting setup. I don't believe that it is only for glam shots, and I believe that the results are very true to the coin being photographed.

Here is one of my shots...

https://lincolncentsociety.wixsite.com/lcnf/memorial-cents-1987-to-2008?pgid=l2dkwpmd2-bcd8fa6f-54d3-4b53-a008-03acf65b43f4

Hi Todd, I use a cannon EOS with a 100mm macro lens. I use Helicon as my camera software. I use a modified axial lighting setup. I don't believe that it is only for glam shots, and I believe that the results are very true to the coin being photographed. Here is one of my shots... https://lincolncentsociety.wixsite.com/lcnf/memorial-cents-1987-to-2008?pgid=l2dkwpmd2-bcd8fa6f-54d3-4b53-a008-03acf65b43f4
- ToddPollock
  
  Robert.Julian Hi Robert!!
  
  [Robert.Julian] Hi Robert!! 😀
ToddPollock

I find axial lighting is useful one in a while but not for all shots. It creates a glam shot, lessen marks and makes the coin look better than they are. A prime macro lens is best, the Nikkor 105, Sigma 150 and Tamron 180 I have all found useful. The 3400 is fine for coins. Finer adjustment? Probably not.

I find axial lighting is useful one in a while but not for all shots. It creates a glam shot, lessen marks and makes the coin look better than they are. A prime macro lens is best, the Nikkor 105, Sigma 150 and Tamron 180 I have all found useful. The 3400 is fine for coins. Finer adjustment? Probably not.
View previous replies
- ToddPollock
  
  arkjones That is camera control pro II and a Nikon D7200.
  
  [arkjones] That is camera control pro II and a Nikon D7200.
- arkjones
  
  ToddPollock I wonder if my LV issues with it are a limitation on the older D3400 then. Focus stacking was something else the camera doesn't seem to support.
  
  I ordered an extension tube to do some fiddling with. A work acquaintance (who does insect photography for researchers) thought my touchy focus ring issue might be due to being right on the edge of minimum distance for my lenses.
  
  Tried to increase the distance with the current set-up, but that was a net loss, as the magnification wasn't powerful enough to see if it was in focus via LV at max zoom lol
  
  Trying to use what I've got as much as possible for the casual inventory capturing. But shucks, I guess I might have to get a new camera for the family before too long
  
  [ToddPollock] I wonder if my LV issues with it are a limitation on the older D3400 then. Focus stacking was something else the camera doesn't seem to support. I ordered an extension tube to do some fiddling with. A work acquaintance (who does insect photography for researchers) thought my touchy focus ring issue might be due to being right on the edge of minimum distance for my lenses. Tried to increase the distance with the current set-up, but that was a net loss, as the magnification wasn't powerful enough to see if it was in focus via LV at max zoom lol Trying to use what I've got as much as possible for the casual inventory capturing. But shucks, I guess I might have to get a new camera for the family before too long 😆
- arkjones
  
  Well, after trial and a lot of error with the new extension tube I found that I actually had two problems with my set up. The focus was an issue that the tubes helped with. Now I have dual adjustments on focus in effect. The zoom on my 18-55 acts as the main “focus” now with the manual focus ring being very fine tuning.
  Buuut, after seeing well focused coins in LV zoomed all the way in, the pics still came out slightly out of focus. I thought it was the tubes causing some issues I wasn’t seeing in LV.
  
  Just out of curiosity, I cranked up the lighting by blasting the coin with my SuperTac flashlight and dropped the shutter down to 1/200. Voila! Clear photos (albeit very shiny surfaces). My verdict is that my shutter release is shaking my camera ever so slightly. To get a good balanced lighting AND clean photo, I’m going to have to replace my low end spring arm camera mount.
  
  Well, after trial and a lot of error with the new extension tube I found that I actually had two problems with my set up. The focus was an issue that the tubes helped with. Now I have dual adjustments on focus in effect. The zoom on my 18-55 acts as the main “focus” now with the manual focus ring being very fine tuning. Buuut, after seeing well focused coins in LV zoomed all the way in, the pics still came out slightly out of focus. I thought it was the tubes causing some issues I wasn’t seeing in LV. Just out of curiosity, I cranked up the lighting by blasting the coin with my SuperTac flashlight and dropped the shutter down to 1/200. Voila! Clear photos (albeit very shiny surfaces). My verdict is that my shutter release is shaking my camera ever so slightly. To get a good balanced lighting AND clean photo, I’m going to have to replace my low end spring arm camera mount.
- ToddPollock
  
  arkjones Dont over think things, the dedicated macro lens is really what you need.
  
  [arkjones] Dont over think things, the dedicated macro lens is really what you need.
- arkjones
  
  ToddPollock A new macro and sturdy stand is probably going on my “get” list. Might need to skip a couple coin auctions to offset that lol
  
  [ToddPollock] A new macro and sturdy stand is probably going on my “get” list. Might need to skip a couple coin auctions to offset that lol

RyanG

Did it work? ;)

Did it work? ;)
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