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About Me
I've been collecting and studying coins most of my life. My favorite series are the Classic Head Gold/Silver/Copper.
Spent time dealing coins, took a break for 15 years (Kids) and now I'm back. Working on setting up new business (Time Capsule Coins) opening soon.
Spent time dealing coins, took a break for 15 years (Kids) and now I'm back. Working on setting up new business (Time Capsule Coins) opening soon.
- 48 Posts
- 105 Comments
- 15 Photos
- 0 Videos
- Partner at Time Capsule Coins
- Lives in Sunnyvale, CA, USA
- From Milwaukie, OR, USA
- Studied Computational Mathematics at San Jose StateClass of 2002
- May 22nd
- Friends with 68 people
- Following 76 people
- Followed by 70 people
Friends 68
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Recent Updates
- A little Easter color to brighten up your MondayA little Easter color to brighten up your Monday4 Comments 0 Shares 863 ViewsPlease log in to like, share and comment!Commenting is disabled.
- To add: your photos are VASTLY superior to the NGC photos here: https://www.ngccoin.com/certlookup/6953624-013/X/ (and why in the heck did they feel the need to reinvent the grading numbers and make us verify by putting "NGCX" as the grade in their legacy system?) Sigh...To add: your photos are VASTLY superior to the NGC photos here: https://www.ngccoin.com/certlookup/6953624-013/X/ (and why in the heck did they feel the need to reinvent the grading numbers and make us verify by putting "NGCX" as the grade in their legacy system?) Sigh...
- Bikergeek I think they thought everyone would prefer Metric.[Bikergeek] I think they thought everyone would prefer Metric.
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- I missed this on the first go-round but I wanted to comment. This is the 1832 LM-5, one of the more abundant varieties for the year at R1. But it's an interesting coin, with Reverse R for the series undergoing a huge change. My own example of this (a Steve Crain MS62+) is very early, with "only" the upper loop of S2 filled, along with N, F, and E3 being chipped or filled (S2 being the second S in STATES, E3 being the E in AMERICA). Your coin here is much later, with all loops of both S's filled, the crack from T1 to scroll, and the crack back up to A1. That area, TED STA, gets a big cud in terminal state. My site has a mapping: https://groovycoins.com/reverse-die.jsp?die=R and I need to jazz that up with some images!I missed this on the first go-round but I wanted to comment. This is the 1832 LM-5, one of the more abundant varieties for the year at R1. But it's an interesting coin, with Reverse R for the series undergoing a huge change. My own example of this (a Steve Crain MS62+) is very early, with "only" the upper loop of S2 filled, along with N, F, and E3 being chipped or filled (S2 being the second S in STATES, E3 being the E in AMERICA). Your coin here is much later, with all loops of both S's filled, the crack from T1 to scroll, and the crack back up to A1. That area, TED STA, gets a big cud in terminal state. My site has a mapping: https://groovycoins.com/reverse-die.jsp?die=R and I need to jazz that up with some images!
- Bikergeek Yep, there is a lot going on. Find something new everytime I look at it.[Bikergeek] Yep, there is a lot going on. Find something new everytime I look at it.
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- Ok I’ll ask. Any chance you’d elaborate a bit on this token? I love it but have very little knowledge of tokens.Ok I’ll ask. Any chance you’d elaborate a bit on this token? I love it but have very little knowledge of tokens.
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- Hashtag Originally a pattern (idea) to use a different metal other than copper from a private party (Feuchtwanger), rejected by Congress. But during the depression people ended up using it for a few years as currency.[Hashtag] Originally a pattern (idea) to use a different metal other than copper from a private party (Feuchtwanger), rejected by Congress. But during the depression people ended up using it for a few years as currency.
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- With a mintage of only 215,000 over 200 years ago. Makes me think this date is pretty undervalued right now. Grade not so desirable but cool none the less.With a mintage of only 215,000 over 200 years ago. Makes me think this date is pretty undervalued right now. Grade not so desirable but cool none the less.
0 Comments 0 Shares 405 Views - Got this new Rattler slab at the Sunnyvale Coin Show last weekend.Got this new Rattler slab at the Sunnyvale Coin Show last weekend.
10 Comments 0 Shares 685 ViewsCommenting is disabled.- If anyone wants to see how an old scuffed up Rattler cleans up with Novus plastic polish, click on the slab photos below to view full screen.If anyone wants to see how an old scuffed up Rattler cleans up with Novus plastic polish, click on the slab photos below to view full screen.
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- BenKarr Have you used Novus on GSA holders? PlastX leaves hairlines, so I don't like using it on them. Could be my rag, too, for that matter.[BenKarr] Have you used Novus on GSA holders? PlastX leaves hairlines, so I don't like using it on them. Could be my rag, too, for that matter.
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- messydesk Sorry I have not tried on GSA holders. I just sold my last GSA holder at the last coin show, timing sucks.
If you have one with a low end Morgan you could experiment. I've never done well with PlastX or Novus by hand. I use this dual action orbital polisher linked below with the 1 inch attachment. For the most part I use Novus 2 and the orange pad for almost everything and the shine it up with Novus 1 and the red pad. I have tried Novus 3 with the green pad on deeper scratches but it's getting into try at your own risk territory. I need a lot more practice.
I just looked at the price, I got it on sale for $79....I might not have got it for the current $119.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B7WMFW4L?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1[messydesk] Sorry I have not tried on GSA holders. I just sold my last GSA holder at the last coin show, timing sucks. If you have one with a low end Morgan you could experiment. I've never done well with PlastX or Novus by hand. I use this dual action orbital polisher linked below with the 1 inch attachment. For the most part I use Novus 2 and the orange pad for almost everything and the shine it up with Novus 1 and the red pad. I have tried Novus 3 with the green pad on deeper scratches but it's getting into try at your own risk territory. I need a lot more practice. I just looked at the price, I got it on sale for $79....I might not have got it for the current $119. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B7WMFW4L?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1 - BenKarr I would try this on a Brown Ike first (same holder). I might try to polish with my thumb and a slurry of PlastX and oil. That takes the tag out of the picture.[BenKarr] I would try this on a Brown Ike first (same holder). I might try to polish with my thumb and a slurry of PlastX and oil. That takes the tag out of the picture.
- messydesk I would just go to a soft foam pad or even a paper towel. But if you go your route and then have the slab graded it might get details thumbed. ;)[messydesk] I would just go to a soft foam pad or even a paper towel. But if you go your route and then have the slab graded it might get details thumbed. ;)
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- The Slab shots turned out great on this one.The Slab shots turned out great on this one.
- BenKarr Will that work on any slab? I got a bunch I was planning for re-holdering because they are so bad[BenKarr] Will that work on any slab? I got a bunch I was planning for re-holdering because they are so bad
- RyanG I have used on NGC, PCGS new and old, Anacs SoapBox. All with mild to great success.
I've tried by hand with almost no success, using the polisher I pasted a link to MessyDesk above does wonders.[RyanG] I have used on NGC, PCGS new and old, Anacs SoapBox. All with mild to great success. I've tried by hand with almost no success, using the polisher I pasted a link to MessyDesk above does wonders.
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- Well, I got a new camera, here is the first test shot. Holy Carp this would have been so much work with my 20 year old camera I've been using till now. This is pretty much out of the box everything auto jpg. All I did was correct the color with color card. Anyone with a modern camera has it easy. :)
This is my base 60mm lens, normally I use my Sigma 150mm for macro shots like this. Can't wait to see what happens when I learn the new system and dial everything in using RAW.Well, I got a new camera, here is the first test shot. Holy Carp this would have been so much work with my 20 year old camera I've been using till now. This is pretty much out of the box everything auto jpg. All I did was correct the color with color card. Anyone with a modern camera has it easy. :) This is my base 60mm lens, normally I use my Sigma 150mm for macro shots like this. Can't wait to see what happens when I learn the new system and dial everything in using RAW.
14 Comments 0 Shares 1097 ViewsCommenting is disabled.- ok, I think I finally have a work flow for the new camera and raw file system I think this is the most color accurate I can get for now. Ended up creating a whole new camera color management profile from my x-brite color card.
Now I just have to work on the lighting some more.ok, I think I finally have a work flow for the new camera and raw file system I think this is the most color accurate I can get for now. Ended up creating a whole new camera color management profile from my x-brite color card. Now I just have to work on the lighting some more.
- Learning the hard way w not new high end cameras must have merit. PhilArnold has shown what he got started taking numi pics with.Learning the hard way w not new high end cameras must have merit. [PhilArnold] has shown what he got started taking numi pics with.
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- messydesk LOL, you have no idea how hard I'm laughing. I have a 1950's Canon film camera I wanted to post but it's packed away.[messydesk] LOL, you have no idea how hard I'm laughing. I have a 1950's Canon film camera I wanted to post but it's packed away.
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- BenKarr I actually did use that one, and I'll have to see if I can find photos taken with it. Here's one I didn't use for coins (Edit: It has an autographic stylus, but I accidentally left it out of the picture.)[BenKarr] I actually did use that one, and I'll have to see if I can find photos taken with it. Here's one I didn't use for coins (Edit: It has an autographic stylus, but I accidentally left it out of the picture.)
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- messydesk Mine was a Nikkormat! Still have it.[messydesk] Mine was a Nikkormat! Still have it.
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- A few things changed going to 150mm, lights were much higher as Todd pointed out and switching to RAW, the color seems much more accurate. Silver is not getting that redish reflection the first image got. After all of that the images look similar to my original camera, they are just much easier to take now.A few things changed going to 150mm, lights were much higher as Todd pointed out and switching to RAW, the color seems much more accurate. Silver is not getting that redish reflection the first image got. After all of that the images look similar to my original camera, they are just much easier to take now.
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- BenKarr So is that possible to do with a DSLR? Specifically a Nikon D3400?[BenKarr] So is that possible to do with a DSLR? Specifically a Nikon D3400?
- RyanG Yes my last camera was a 20 year old Canon 40D DSLR. I'm using the same old lenses on the new camera. It's more about the lens and setup/lighting than it is the camera. Ideally you want a fixed prime lens between 100mm and 150mm to have a good working distance. Just the newer cameras have better LCD screesn so when you zoom in to focus on coin elements it's easier.
If I remember right, I think ToddPollock was using a NIkon DSLR with better results than mine 20 years ago. There is a learning curve that takes practice with lighting. A Copy stand is extremely helpful. Cutting out all room light either shooting into a black box or turning off the room lights so you only deal with the lights on the coin. Having a gray card with known values to either set the camera to or use in post processing.[RyanG] Yes my last camera was a 20 year old Canon 40D DSLR. I'm using the same old lenses on the new camera. It's more about the lens and setup/lighting than it is the camera. Ideally you want a fixed prime lens between 100mm and 150mm to have a good working distance. Just the newer cameras have better LCD screesn so when you zoom in to focus on coin elements it's easier. If I remember right, I think ToddPollock was using a NIkon DSLR with better results than mine 20 years ago. There is a learning curve that takes practice with lighting. A Copy stand is extremely helpful. Cutting out all room light either shooting into a black box or turning off the room lights so you only deal with the lights on the coin. Having a gray card with known values to either set the camera to or use in post processing.- 1
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- BenKarr Sound advice. Thank you![BenKarr] Sound advice. Thank you!
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- This is really nice! I use my Sigma macro on an old Nikon DSLR D3400. Im horrible with lightning. Still trying to figure out how to get my picture to look like this.This is really nice! I use my Sigma macro on an old Nikon DSLR D3400. Im horrible with lightning. Still trying to figure out how to get my picture to look like this.
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- RyanG Just found the most beatup coin I could find in my collection to see how it looks in photos. Still looks beat up. I have to do an eBay setup to blur all of the blemishes[RyanG] Just found the most beatup coin I could find in my collection to see how it looks in photos. Still looks beat up. I have to do an eBay setup to blur all of the blemishes 🤣
- BenKarr activate the morgandealer.filter[BenKarr] activate the morgandealer.filter
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- Sorry, I'm just in my annual photo mode. I was looking up examples of DMPL Morgan photos and most, even on GreatCollections tend to be a little over exposed with flat fields showing more detail so you can't tell it's DMPL. I managed to mimic that.
Question is do you prefer slightly under exposed with blacker fields to show it's more DMPL or like this a little over exposed with just the raw detail? Showing Morgan mirrors is tough.Sorry, I'm just in my annual photo mode. I was looking up examples of DMPL Morgan photos and most, even on GreatCollections tend to be a little over exposed with flat fields showing more detail so you can't tell it's DMPL. I managed to mimic that. Question is do you prefer slightly under exposed with blacker fields to show it's more DMPL or like this a little over exposed with just the raw detail? Showing Morgan mirrors is tough.
1 Comments 0 Shares 611 ViewsCommenting is disabled. - I've just acquired this 1875-S Twenty-Cent Piece PCGS VG-8.I've just acquired this [coin:ad46799c-20ce-11f1-83dc-0660ea78a99b].6 Comments 0 Shares 666 ViewsCommenting is disabled.
- My main goal is to build a die pair set for this date, there are 16 known so does not matter too much about the PCGS database. If they ever recognize the varieties then it might be worth sending in to get the slab/database fixed and have the variety put on the correct label.My main goal is to build a die pair set for this date, there are 16 known so does not matter too much about the PCGS database. If they ever recognize the varieties then it might be worth sending in to get the slab/database fixed and have the variety put on the correct label.
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- BenKarr I can override to a 20c here but the cert lookup is a 25c at PCGS.[BenKarr] I can override to a 20c here but the cert lookup is a 25c at PCGS.
- ToddPollock Yeah, need to override, I'll contact PCGS support, Your comment made me go look at the label. Although, might be fun to keep it as a PCGS Error Slab.[ToddPollock] Yeah, need to override, I'll contact PCGS support, Your comment made me go look at the label. Although, might be fun to keep it as a PCGS Error Slab.
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- BenKarr all fixed.[BenKarr] all fixed.
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- Playing with camera, so hard to get light everywhere I want it.Playing with camera, so hard to get light everywhere I want it.
7 Comments 0 Shares 750 ViewsCommenting is disabled.- Two thoughts: first, you're on the right track. This is a very creditable image. Keep playing and you'll turn it into gallery-quality. Second, that is, I believe, the most beautiful Peace dollar I've ever seen! I don't care about the small surface issues that knocked it down to 64 because all big coins have marks on them (I say this as a half-dime specialist). But that toning and luster are gorgeous!Two thoughts: first, you're on the right track. This is a very creditable image. Keep playing and you'll turn it into gallery-quality. Second, that is, I believe, the most beautiful Peace dollar I've ever seen! I don't care about the small surface issues that knocked it down to 64 because all big coins have marks on them (I say this as a half-dime specialist). But that toning and luster are gorgeous!
- Bikergeek Thanks, it is something else. the luster just looks like melting butter and any imperfections are lost in the water. I almost never see toning on Peace Dollars so this one was just a keeper. The old Gen 5.0 NGC holder adds a little to the mystic of the coin as well.[Bikergeek] Thanks, it is something else. the luster just looks like melting butter and any imperfections are lost in the water. I almost never see toning on Peace Dollars so this one was just a keeper. The old Gen 5.0 NGC holder adds a little to the mystic of the coin as well.
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- Partially the old fatty NGC holder, coin does not sit quite even.Partially the old fatty NGC holder, coin does not sit quite even.
- BenKarr Get the lights up high and tight to the lens.[BenKarr] Get the lights up high and tight to the lens.
- ToddPollock yeah, they are right up pushing against the lens, just somehow with this coin I'm having trouble lighting everything. thinking I might need to get a third light. Lens and lights are a good 2 feet above the coin.
I'll try a few more things and post back if I finally nail it.[ToddPollock] yeah, they are right up pushing against the lens, just somehow with this coin I'm having trouble lighting everything. thinking I might need to get a third light. Lens and lights are a good 2 feet above the coin. I'll try a few more things and post back if I finally nail it.- 1
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- I've just added a set "BenKarr's Mexican Onza Silver" (Mexican Onza Silver, Circulation Strikes 1982-present).I've just added a set [set:227f1250-181e-11f1-bdc4-0660ea78a99b].0 Comments 0 Shares 604 Views
- I've just acquired this Japan Year 32 (1899) Silver 20 Sen Y-24 PCGS MS-66. Stunning example with great eye appealI've just acquired this [coin:8ce1684c-40e6-11f0-9770-0660ea78a99b]. Stunning example with great eye appeal2 Comments 0 Shares 919 Views
- I've just acquired this 1817 Capped Bust Half Dollar NGC XF-45.I've just acquired this [coin:da58b002-efc5-11ef-979b-0660ea78a99b].0 Comments 0 Shares 1129 Views
- Just curious if anyone can help identify the LM# on this dirty little guy?Just curious if anyone can help identify the LM# on this dirty little guy?
5 Comments 0 Shares 1815 ViewsCommenting is disabled.- The other small date/small 5c for 1835 is indeed the LM-11 - it is listed as a rarity-4 coin (although my opinion is that it's going to be downgraded to R-3) and it's easily distinguished from LM-10 by the more even 1835 and the topmost arrowhead touching the final A in AMERICA.The other small date/small 5c for 1835 is indeed the LM-11 - it is listed as a rarity-4 coin (although my opinion is that it's going to be downgraded to R-3) and it's easily distinguished from LM-10 by the more even 1835 and the topmost arrowhead touching the final A in AMERICA.
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- Bikergeek thanks, I’ll keep an eye out[Bikergeek] thanks, I’ll keep an eye out
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- You are spot on. This is the LM-10, which marries 1835 Obverse 6 ("8 high, 3 low") with Reverse EE. This is an abundant marriage for the year - possibly the most abundant marriage for the entire capped bust half dime series! Your coin is in the common state, with the upper loop of S2 (the second S in STATES) filled.You are spot on. This is the LM-10, which marries 1835 Obverse 6 ("8 high, 3 low") with Reverse EE. This is an abundant marriage for the year - possibly the most abundant marriage for the entire capped bust half dime series! Your coin is in the common state, with the upper loop of S2 (the second S in STATES) filled.
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- Bikergeek thanks, confirmation much appreciated[Bikergeek] thanks, confirmation much appreciated
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- I'm guessing LM-10 Sm Date, Sm 5C, with the flag of the 5 pointed slightly down vs. LM-11 where it's slightly up.
Only going by PCGS photos I could find online.I'm guessing LM-10 Sm Date, Sm 5C, with the flag of the 5 pointed slightly down vs. LM-11 where it's slightly up. Only going by PCGS photos I could find online.
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