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Dedicated to everything Walking Liberty Half. 1916-1947
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Hi all! This group is a great place to get together and share all of your Walkers! Please note - there is a hard and fast rule that NO ADVERTISING OF ANY KIND is allowed. Any posts violating this will be removed. Thanks!
Hi all! This group is a great place to get together and share all of your Walkers! Please note - there is a hard and fast rule that NO ADVERTISING OF ANY KIND is allowed. Any posts violating this will be removed. Thanks!
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Recent Updates
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  • https://coinweek.com/1933-s-walking-liberty-half-dollar-a-collectors-guide/
    https://coinweek.com/1933-s-walking-liberty-half-dollar-a-collectors-guide/
    COINWEEK.COM
    1933-S Walking Liberty Half Dollar : A Collector's Guide
    By Charles Morgan and Hubert Walker for CoinWeek Notes ..... Domestic coin demands increased slightly in 1933, prompting the San Francisco Mint to
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  • Here is my latest addition:
    Here is my latest addition:
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  • Question: If your starting to collect Walking Liberty HD, do you think it best to start with the key dates or fill in the easy one first? I just started working the Dansco album 7160. My goal is to get them in a good grade that I can afford. I welcome any thoughts
    Question: If your starting to collect Walking Liberty HD, do you think it best to start with the key dates or fill in the easy one first? I just started working the Dansco album 7160. My goal is to get them in a good grade that I can afford. I welcome any thoughts
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  • I'm curious if anyone has details about changes to the master hubs. I'm working on finishing out some of the earlier dates and was just looking at an AU53 from 1918 where the hand detail is strong, but the middle skirt lines are completely invisible. That's been my quick go-to for strike on later dates. Contrast this to when I was looking for 1940s, and usually full skirt lines meant the hand would be visible at least (quite rare for that issue, though).

    The two references I have (PCGS Coin Facts and the Red Book series on Mercs, SLQs and Walkers) both say strike is not really an issue with this date. However, just perusing the Great Collections archive, it appears that the skirt lines are generally weak even on MS coins.

    Strike has certainly not been a huge focus of mine in the early dates because simply finding them in mid-circulated grades is a challenge enough.
    I'm curious if anyone has details about changes to the master hubs. I'm working on finishing out some of the earlier dates and was just looking at an AU53 from 1918 where the hand detail is strong, but the middle skirt lines are completely invisible. That's been my quick go-to for strike on later dates. Contrast this to when I was looking for 1940s, and usually full skirt lines meant the hand would be visible at least (quite rare for that issue, though). The two references I have (PCGS Coin Facts and the Red Book series on Mercs, SLQs and Walkers) both say strike is not really an issue with this date. However, just perusing the Great Collections archive, it appears that the skirt lines are generally weak even on MS coins. Strike has certainly not been a huge focus of mine in the early dates because simply finding them in mid-circulated grades is a challenge enough.
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  • I noticed the ngc pop report lists a 44-s in ms68+. What?! Is that real or is ngc conducive to having errors and typos? (Most pcgs errors are putting proof coins in the ms pop report, or even ms holders, but of course there are no proofs from 1944 let alone 1944-s).
    I noticed the ngc pop report lists a 44-s in ms68+. What?! Is that real or is ngc conducive to having errors and typos? (Most pcgs errors are putting proof coins in the ms pop report, or even ms holders, but of course there are no proofs from 1944 let alone 1944-s).
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  • I added one more coin this week. I now have 26 different Walkers and 12 duplicates, and I've sold 11 over the years (all are/were 1933-1947 and pcgs ms66 or better). Number purchased by year...
    with the numbers in ( , , ) being the number of those that are my primary coin, number that are dups I still own, and the number of coins I sold.
    2011 - 1 (1, 0, 0)
    2012 - 1 (0, 0, 1)
    2016 - 2 (0, 1, 1)
    2017 -15 (4, 4, 7)
    2018 - 2 (2, 0, 0)
    2019 - 5 (2, 2, 1)
    2020 - 8 (6, 1, 1)
    2021 - 0
    2022 - 4 (2, 2, 0)
    2023 -11(9, 2 ,0)

    2023 has been quite a year and there's still 2 months to go!
    I added one more coin this week. I now have 26 different Walkers and 12 duplicates, and I've sold 11 over the years (all are/were 1933-1947 and pcgs ms66 or better). Number purchased by year... with the numbers in ( , , ) being the number of those that are my primary coin, number that are dups I still own, and the number of coins I sold. 2011 - 1 (1, 0, 0) 2012 - 1 (0, 0, 1) 2016 - 2 (0, 1, 1) 2017 -15 (4, 4, 7) 2018 - 2 (2, 0, 0) 2019 - 5 (2, 2, 1) 2020 - 8 (6, 1, 1) 2021 - 0 2022 - 4 (2, 2, 0) 2023 -11(9, 2 ,0) 2023 has been quite a year and there's still 2 months to go!
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  • Hi all! This group is a great place to get together and share all of your Walkers! Please note - there is a hard and fast rule that NO ADVERTISING OF ANY KIND is allowed. Any posts violating this will be removed. Thanks!
    Hi all! This group is a great place to get together and share all of your Walkers! Please note - there is a hard and fast rule that NO ADVERTISING OF ANY KIND is allowed. Any posts violating this will be removed. Thanks!
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  • A growing parade.
    A growing parade.
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  • 1942-MS 65 toned
    1944-d MS 64 toned
    1944-s MS 64 toned
    1942-MS 65 toned 1944-d MS 64 toned 1944-s MS 64 toned
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  • which 44-d do you like better? Both are old holder ms67s (probably ms67+ candidates). Coin A has a light golden patina to it, looks like a spot where the patina disappears but in hand it's really no issue. It has a better strike. 1 super small (I mean small) tick right field, only issue on reverse is minor hidden scratch in feathers. Coin B has small tick on neck and on hand (exaggerated by the camera) and a perfect right field (lines you see are on the holder). It's reverse has a slightly more visible (but still minor) twisty graze/scratch above the eagle seen as that dark line.
    which 44-d do you like better? Both are old holder ms67s (probably ms67+ candidates). Coin A has a light golden patina to it, looks like a spot where the patina disappears but in hand it's really no issue. It has a better strike. 1 super small (I mean small) tick right field, only issue on reverse is minor hidden scratch in feathers. Coin B has small tick on neck and on hand (exaggerated by the camera) and a perfect right field (lines you see are on the holder). It's reverse has a slightly more visible (but still minor) twisty graze/scratch above the eagle seen as that dark line.
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  • I just got 2 new Wlakers for my set. I just love the spotless suns despit some contact marks and luster breaks in the right field.
    I just got 2 new Wlakers for my set. I just love the spotless suns despit some contact marks and luster breaks in the right field.
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